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Find Furniture or Furnishings in Essex Furniture based in Basildon, Chelmsford, Clacton, Colchester,
Epping, Halstead, Harlow, Harwich, Maldon, Ilford, Romford, Southend, Braintree and Brentwood. |
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Staining Furniture
Staining furniture is a do-it-yourself project that is fairly easy to accomplish.
It doesn't take a lot of materials, is fairly inexpensive, and offers big rewards
for the time spent.
The current craze for flea-market shopping and trash-to-treasure recycling has many
of us taking a new look at refinishing our own furniture.
What You'll Need
Staining furniture is a fairly low-cost project. Here's what you'll need: sandpaper,
tack cloths (or damp lint-free rags), a can of stain, some foam brushes, lots of
cotton lint-free rags, a plastic tarp, newspapers, a paint tray, and a finishing
layer such as polyurethane or wax.
Stage Your Project
First assemble all of your materials and set up one work area for sanding and another
for staining and finishing. Plan on sanding and cleaning the furniture one day,
stain it the next day, and polyurethane the next.
Choosing A Workspace
Outdoors may be the perfect place to work on sanding a piece. Sawdust can be easily
swept or washed away when you're done and dust won't get into anything stored nearby.
Keep Dust Down
After sanding be sure to wipe down each piece with a tack rag or a cloth that is
barely damp. Follow up by wiping off with a dry lint-free rag. Set the cleaned items
in a sheltered work area (such as a basement or garage) to keep them dust free until
staining.
Test Stain Colors
Be sure to test stain colors, application techniques, and waiting times on pieces
of scrap wood. Most home centers have sample boards of how stain colors appear on
various types of wood so you can choose looks that are light or dark, plain or colored,
as needed. Some manufacturers recommend an application of a pre-stain sealer to
even out the finished product. Inquire at the hardware store for the required products
for your particular project.
What Type of Stain?
You'll find a wide range of stain products at your local home center. Describe your
particular project to the experts who work there and get a recommendation. The only
type to avoid may be the "all in one" stain and polyurethane product. These offer
less much control over color and since they are not "wiped off" the wood grain can
be masked or tend to appear muddy.
Stir Stain Well
Shake the can of stain gently to mix tint in well. Open the can and stir again with
a paint stick, then pour out about a half inch into a small tray or jar. Recover
the can. Working from this smaller tray of stain will let you keep stirring and
mixing it with your brush, insuring the color remains evenly distributed as you
work.
Cover the Floor
For large pieces of furniture you'll want to protect the floor before you begin
working. Lay a plastic tarp on the floor. Cover this with several layers of newspaper.
Finally, bring in several blocks of wood (sections of 2x4 lumber will do) to elevate
your piece, allowing you to stain the legs all the way to the bottom.
Stain Applicators
Foam brushes make excellent applicators for stain. They can hold a lot of material,
be squeezed almost dry for laying off, and are flexible enough to get into corners.
While some foam brushes can be purchased for pennies, look for better quality brushes
with denser foam and sturdy plastic handles.
Work in Manageable Sections
Decide which sections to work on first. For a table you may want to turn it over
and stain the underside first. Once the stain has been applied and wiped down you
can begin another section. Leave the most visible areas -- such as the tabletop
-- as the last area to be stained.
Take it Off
Removing the stain you've applied is one of the most important steps since it is
what will allow the natural wood grain to show through. Read the instructions on
the can of stain for important information about both staining and removing the
stain.
Don't Let Stain Sit Too Long
From your sample tests you should have a good idea of how long to let the stain
sit before wiping it off. Test the first section by wiping away a small area of
stain after a minute or two. Reapply if it should sit a few minutes longer. Don't
wait until the stain becomes tacky, however, as it will turn splotchy and be extremely
difficult to remove.
Ragging Off
Be sure you have a big supply of rags on hand, especially if your project is large.
Clean lint-free rags are the best way to remove a layer of stain. Paint stores sell
bags of rags for this purpose. Check to make sure these rags are large enough for
your project. (Some rags are cut-up remnants from making T-shirts and are too small
and oddly-shaped, making them more difficult to work with.)
Let Dry
Once the staining is complete, let your pieces dry undisturbed in an area that's
free from dust and breezes. Check the can's instructions on drying time which will
vary by manufacturer. Humidity levels in your area can also be a factor. Letting
pieces dry at least 24 hours will generally be adequate for most projects.
Run a Hand
Before processing pieces any further be sure they are dry and clean. If you can
feel areas of raised grain then a light sanding might be in order to knock down
the grain. Clean well before applying polyurethane or another finish.
Polyurethane Tips
Many projects can be finished by applying two or more coats of a water based latex
polyurethane. These are available in a range of glosses from matte to high gloss.
The liquid is often milky in appearance but dries clear. Sand lightly between coats
for the smoothest finish. Apply more coats to the areas of the furniture that will
receive the most wear.
Other Finishes
Furniture can have other finishes besides polyurethane. Wax, shellac, and oil are
all popular for adding a protective sheen to wood. Inquire at a home center or obtain
a book on refinishing for more about these options.
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